Old strategy, new tool dissuades dogs from scavenging on walks

Seeing the world through the lenses I’ve developed in working with dogs is interesting, especially when walking them. I’ve grown accustomed to assessing things by rote before I hitch a dog up to their harness and as we step out the door, with necessary tools aboard to enhance the experience and keep the adventure a safe one. 

It’s rare that there isn’t an adjustment that’s needed at some point on a dog walk—pivoting direction when there’s another dog and handler approaching who aren’t handling themselves well, steering clear of a yard where kids are playing—you get the idea. It can be a minefield at times. 

I’m all about dogs getting the most out of their adventures, with an emphasis on having a chance to sniff the heck out of everything along the way, regardless of their age or ability. It’s probably more important than the physical movement that is the aim of most people when dog walking. A dog’s nose is their most powerful sense, providing the most enrichment and it’s the one they can most rely on when all the others fade in their dotage. And most of the time, I can be a step ahead of their nose, which helps tremendously when there’s a gob of human food casted off in the grass, bunny poop (or that of any other animal) or anything else gross or not a dog might find appealing enough to scarf up with lightning speed. I can usually pivot them away from the offending stuff before they even realize it’s there. 

But alas. 

There are times my spidey senses fail, and with some dogs, miserably far too often.  They are masters of finding anything they shouldn’t gobble up, edible or not. And then my usually-reliable tactic of a ‘leave it!’ cue or the even more effective cue ‘take it!’, (as I learned from a conference lecture by Harmony Dog Training’s Angela Schmarrow this fall) doesn’t offer cooperation in the dog relinquishing the find for a trade of a high value, safe treat. 

And down the hatch it goes. 

Typically, no harm is done, and I chalk it up as my having lost that one and move on. 

Though if you’ve a dog in your care who has a very touchy GI tract, engages in this unwanted behavior habitually despite your best efforts, it can make for outings that are especially frustrating. And if a dog has complex resource guarding issues, it goes without saying how slippery a scenario that can unfold into.

During a recent animal behavior conference, I was excited to learn about a strategy that can help mitigate a dog’s wayward enthusiasm for scarfing down items on walks they shouldn’t. The Crazy Felix is a tool—yes, a muzzle—that prevents the behavior while allowing a dog to breathe efficiently, pant, sniff… all the things we want dogs to be able to do on walks. They can also take treats while wearing it. 

It’s a great option, and one that’s more appealing to many guardians than a basket muzzle, the only other safe tool that’s recommended for this purpose by certified trainers, vet behaviorists and credentialed pet care professionals, like me. It’s ease of use and appearance makes it so. Training a dog to accept wearing the Crazy Felix using positive reinforcement (R+) is still necessary of course, just like other types of muzzles, and the payoff is huge. 

To learn more about muzzle training and why its recommended that every dog be trained to wear a muzzle, head over to The Muzzle Up Project. 

With over 20 years of experience, Lorrie Shaw is a Certified Professional Pet Sitter, Certified Fear Free Professional–pet sitter and owner of Professional Pet Sitting, where she specializes in ancillary pet palliative and pet hospice care. She's also a member of Doggone Safe (where she completed the Speak Dog Certificate Program), as well as the International Association of Animal Hospice and Palliative Care, Pet Sitters International, Pet Professional Guild, International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants (supporting member) and Ann Arbor Area Pet Sitters. Lorrie can be found at lorrieshaw.com. She tweets at @psa2.   

The right equipment & strategies can enhance your dog walking experience & even save your life

This time of year teems with a lot of good stuff: the sun rising earlier and setting later, slowly unfolding warmer weather, and activities that come with all that. With witnessing what feels like an unfurling from a cocoon as the confines of the pandemic begin to loosen, it’s clear that people are even more ready to get out and about. With more families beginning to feel comfortable enough to actually plan to indulge their wanderlust, visit family—even return to their physical workplaces—that means that I’ll be regaining a sense of normal as well. 

And I realize that in some ways, things will look different than before. Just as there are changes with my feline and canine charges, there’s most definitely bound to be a shift in the dynamic of their respective neighborhoods, not to mention trails, dog parks and other areas that our canine friends frequent. That can be a good thing, though when it comes to looking at things through the lens of a seasoned dog handler, we know there are likely to be some added challenges, and serious ones at that. 

One of the things I routinely do prior to a consultation with a new family or I’ve a reservation coming up with a household with canines that I’ve not seen in awhile, is to go to their neighborhood and do an assessment. Yes, I drive through. Then I park, get out and walk around the neighborhood and any surrounding trails. I pay close attention to how any handlers are navigating their outings with the dog or dogs on the other end of the leash, and any interactions with others. What kind of equipment are they using? Are they negotiating space with others thoughtfully? I also watch the body language and actions of the dogs when they see other dogs, humans or the random bunny or squirrel. I take notice of which homes have obvious occupancy with dogs. Any signs of electric fences? Who has a physical fence? Do I notice any off-leash pairings or solo dogs running about?

You get the idea.  This kind of thing pays off: I know areas or streets to avoid, and I recognize which dog/handler teams have a hard time. 

One thing that’s impossible to ignore lately are the number of electric fence systems that have been installed in recent weeks. Most dog handlers understand their usefulness, though we all-too-often see how they negatively impact dogs and the safety of others. Dogs can breach them, and we professionals see that they often do. Let me say that the close calls I’ve had personally because of electric fences have been more numerous than in times past. Having a dog come running from out of nowhere in their yard to the very edge of a sidewalk or street, barking and carrying on or worse is never a good feeling. 

Wireless fencing systems are only the tip of the iceberg though; one situation that I found myself in a couple of years ago made me grateful for my skills, despite my one error. Thankfully, the dog that I was chaperoning wasn’t geriatric, though many are. Those dogs tend to have visual and hearing deficits, not to mention limited mobility and sometimes cognition changes and anxiety. In many cases, they’re terminal, and yes, some of those terminal dogs don’t look like it: they’re young—too young to be meeting their end—and despite their appearance, they’re physically compromised. Others are recovering from TPLO, spinal or other surgery/injury even though they often don’t show it. Some of the dogs in my care are living with behavioral challenges or anxiety, treated by a professional or not. Just as I carefully review every aspect of a dog’s history to ensure they’re not only healthy enough to be in my care from a health and behavior standpoint (ask any family-of-record—it is complete!) to ensure they have the best experience possible, it’s also my responsibility to ensure that I’m doing my due diligence to protect them (and myself) no matter if we’re in their yard or out on an adventure, short or long, and their right to have that.  And that requires preparation.

Earlier this week, I caught the latest episode of The Bitey End of the Dog, hosted by Michael Shikashio, the brains behind AggeessiveDog.com. He and his guest, fellow credentialed dog behavior professional Laura Monaco Torelli, talk about an important topic and one not unfamiliar to dog handlers of all backgrounds: dog attacks. In the segment, Torelli chronicles a brutal attack (and its aftermath) that injured both her and her dog, Vito while they were out on an ordinary walk in their own neighborhood. 

The poignant conversation brought memories of my own dog attack experiences and the many times I’ve used my skills to steer out of near misses. That said, Shikashio and Torelli include helpful tips on products and strategies to keep you and your dog safe, so the episode is worth a listen. The tips are ones I employ and then some, and so as we all re-orient ourselves into more frequent outings with or without dogs, I wanted to include my own strategies like:

•carry citronella spray, and use it properly: aim at or near the nose of the attacking dog, avoiding the animal’s eyes. The aim is to distract and dissuade the dog from continuing the approach, not to hurt them. And please, pepper spray isn’t necessary and any resulting mist could blow back into your face and disable you—not the goal. 

•having a whistle attached to the zipper pull on my winter and summer outerwear, which when sounded can elicit an audible distraction for the other dog in hopes to either maintain distance or arrest an interaction in progress. It can also draw attention from other humans quickly and act as a distress call of sorts

•abiding by a policy of situational awareness, which means constantly paying attention to what’s going on with the dog on the other end of the leash, and what’s going on around us, and adjusting as necessary. This includes not talking on my cell phone and never wearing earbuds. Though my device (which I always maintain a full charge) can be a lifeline in so many ways, it should never be a distraction. 

•keep a handful of high-value dog treats in my pocket/pouch to help navigate out of unwanted approaches by other dogs

•swiftly and thoughtfully decline on requests by other humans to pet your dog

•my case (and policy) for walking only one dog at a time 

•and in the video below, another quirky tip and my top equipment choices and why.

With over 20 years of experience in pet care and the past 10 of those focused on animal hospice, Lorrie Shaw is a Certified Animal Hospice Practitioner, Certified Hospice and Palliative Care Advocate and Certified Fear Free Professional. She is CXO of Telos Companion Animal Services, LLC. She can be found at lorrieshaw.com.

Off-leash interactions can turn dangerous for dogs and their handlers

One weekend evening earlier this month, I was on a typical outing with one of my charges -- a shepherd mix -- in her neighborhood. Dinner was a few hours before on that gorgeous spring afternoon, then a walk, and now, she was getting tucked in for the night. The weather was still hard to pass up at that hour, and the sun would be dipping low soon, so off we went for a walk before bed.

Walking my charges in neighborhoods, as I’m sure my colleagues will exclaim, can be a challenge: too many humans thoughtlessly staring into the blue screens of their handheld devices, one [is] too many dogs hitched up to a retractable leash, and far fewer humans on the other end of any leash who understand canine body language and behavior. That imbalance of mindfulness has led to more unwelcome and tense, off-leash approaches between the dogs in my care than I care to think about. Thankfully, most instances can be quelled quickly with the training I’ve sought, and the fact that most handlers get jarred from their laissez-faire cloud in a hurry once the cacophony of snarling dogs begins. Yes, they snap to attention when that happens.

But that’s not always the case.

I was cautious, as I always am in neighborhoods on weekends like that: warm, sunny temperatures on a spring evening after a long winter that didn’t want to let go. The bustle of busy families could easily be heard through garage doors left open, and entry doors to their inner walls that could have been unintentionally-but-carelessly unlatched, the possibility of dogs inside those homes that don’t have the tools to regulate their reactions when they see the increased foot traffic outside, which invariably includes other dogs.  

As a Certified Professional Pet Sitter who has additional education in understanding animal behavior, I can tell you it’s one thing to hear the familiar sounds that indicate there’s a dog in the area who’s probably not-so-good about managing themselves around other dogs that raises your alertness. But it’s another to hear tense, uneasy voices directed at a dog who has escaped their home through an entry door and to see them running straight towards you and the dog you’re charged with taking care of. You toss a handful of high-value dog treats directly at her in an effort to buy a few seconds of distraction, but it’s met with indifference. You then take inventory of the tense facial expression and clear body language of the dog, and the body language of the dog who’s connected to the other end of your leash. And then you look up and see two older people who despite understanding your clear, calm, authoritative cues to get control of the dog, who are physically nor emotionally equipped to intervene, and you note a minor child running into the house. Your full attention then goes back to the two dogs at your feet, because you realize that you’re pretty much on your own with finding a way to diffuse the situation, which is escalating. Repeated attempts to calmly and slowly gain distance from the dog prove useless -- they keep approaching aggressively despite your charge following your calm lead -- and you realize when reaching toward your waistband that the citronella spray that’s usually on your person for situations like this is on the kitchen counter. The dog who’s approached you and your charge has clearly been pushed over their behavioral threshold; vocalizing, snapping, biting, rearing up. And with repeated calm-but-audible cues for assistance unheard and seeing the helpless and terrified expressions from the elderly adults who are coming into and out of your view, you know that your next step is to let go of the leash you’re holding and hopefully find a trash can lid or a wooden board or a blanket to put between the two dogs to diffuse what has now become a dogfight complete with a bite to one of them -- and then, the face of the (pre)teen who disappeared just minutes before comes into view holding a dog harness. Somehow, he gets the dog’s attention.

The dog fight breaks.

This is a cautionary tale, and in it I detailed not only what I experienced, but what everyone involved did, as best as I could.

This entire interaction probably lasted three minutes (though as you might expect when you’re at the helm it seems much longer), and it was one that could have been avoided. The dog could have been safely confined behind a baby gate or closed in a room until the guests made their way out of the house. Able-bodied and familiar adults could have been at home to supervise the dog and after the escape, and on hand to safely keep an unfavorable interaction from escalating.

I didn’t use my body or limbs to intervene. I didn’t yell at the dogs. I stayed calm.

In fact, I followed that training and everything else that I was trained to do to maintain control and extinguish the

situation with the exception of one thing: I was remiss in not having my usual citronella spray, in this case, PetSafe Spray Shield with me on this outing. This likely would have easily and humanely disrupted this interaction altogether. (It’s not recommended that pepper spray or other products are used. The accidental contact with my own eyes could have rendered me completely useless in this situation and put me at significantly higher risk of a dog bite.)

Thankfully, the dog in my care is well-centered and followed my lead to the best of her ability. That was a huge help.

Situations that are allowed to escalate to this degree -- as I indicated, these kinds of interactions are rare -- are dangerous for many reasons. They put the dogs and humans around them at risk of bites and other injuries. In this case, one of the dogs required medical attention. And in my ongoing dialogue with the owner after the incident, it was discovered that the other dog had a lapsed rabies vaccination. Thankfully, understanding the inherent risks but following up on those with the Michigan Department of Community Health, I knew any risk to me and my charge, who was vaccinated, was extremely low. I felt confident with that.

Because of the speed at which the dog’s behavioral threshold was breached when she had escaped and approached us, not to mention factors that I indicated and others that I’ve decided not to go into, I ultimately decided to file a report with Washtenaw County Animal Control. Though the team there was amazing and professional, I hope to not have to do so again though I wouldn’t hesitate if I needed to. Honestly, I’d rather have more dogs in our midst who can behaviorally manage themselves better, and in following up with the family, I made that my focus. In being a good steward in the professional pet care industry, I noted:

I know from experience this is a busy neighborhood in terms of foot traffic with humans and dogs. That can be really hard for some dogs (actually, many and the majority of those are easily triggered by seeing other dogs) as it’s too much to handle and it’s easy for them to go from calm to hyper-aroused in no time. It really puts them in some risky situations and puts their own safety in jeopardy, and sometimes that in itself can exacerbate any existing behavioral challenges. I see it in my work frequently. If that describes [your dog] and you feel like having some solid support to help her gain skills to navigate situations like that would be welcome, I’m happy to recommend a couple of certified canine behavior consultants, if you’re not already working with one. In any case, I’m glad that [your dog] is okay!

In reading this post, it might give you pause as you make your way out on your next outing on your own or with your own dog, and maybe even seek training on how to manage a dog fight. If you’ve a dog who has trouble managing themselves, I hope this inspires you to find the right help and taking the right precautions so that situations like this can be avoided. I’m grateful that I hadn’t been chaperoning one of my geriatric charges, one that’s in hospice or recovering from an injury or surgery -- the ones who would be easily be (re)injured or killed in an interaction like this. And if you’re fond of using a retractable leash or letting your pet go off leash altogether, I hope this cautionary tale changes your thinking.    

Lorrie Shaw is a Certified Professional Pet Sitter, Certified Pet Loss and Grief Companion, and owner of Professional Pet Sitting, where she specializes in ancillary pet palliative and pet hospice care. She's also a member of Doggone Safe (where she completed the Speak Dog Certificate Program), as well as the International Association of Animal Hospice and Palliative Care, Pet Sitters International, Pet Professional Guild, International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants (supporting member) and Ann Arbor Area Pet Sitters. Lorrie can be found at lorrieshaw.com. She tweets at @psa2.

One overlooked detail could be hampering your dog walking efforts

Being out on an adventure with our dogs is a fun way to engage with them and is great for our mutual well-being. As a professional, I've had the opportunity to try out different leashes and other pieces of equipment, for example, harnesses—my requisite choice—to enhance the experience for myself and the dog I'm with. Comfort and safety are paramount for both of us, and since I'm in the driver's seat so to speak, it's up to me to ensure that and to gauge if my 'passenger' is having trouble. 

Safety and ethics

There are things that, for safety, ethical and professional reasons, I unable to use: choke, prong and shock collars and retractable leashes—the latter being my focus here—are off limits.

Many families love them, and it's not hard to see why. They offer dogs more space to roam while still being tethered, the lead itself retracts back into the handset as the dog moves closer and further away. Some models have lights and even a dog waste dispenser attached to them. 

Convenience is attractive. But it, like other things, comes with a trade off: safety. Are you willing to sacrifice that? I hope not. Though there's an inherent level of liability that comes with having a pet in our custody when we're out in public, there are just too many variables that are not predictable and can contribute to very dicey situations. I've addressed this in past posts, so feel free to click here and here for more on that. 

An equally important issue

There's is another issue with retractable leashes that I find dogs don't like and it's easy to overlook. Though I find this is more the case with dogs that are touch-averse, it's not limited to them. The constant tugging feeling of the lead as it releases and retracts when a dog moves toward and away from the handler. It's distracting for the dog and to some degree can be confusing for them—after all, the leash itself is a communication conduit of sorts between dog and handler. At least that's what I've always felt. I've tested this theory on several of my canine charges, and overwhelmingly, a traditional leash yields more favorable interactions.

If your dog isn't doing as great on leash as you'd like and you're still using a retractable, consider instead using a lightweight, comfortable leash (it does not need to be expensive, just sturdy) that feels good in your hand. A lightweight leash can help mitigate any undesirable sensation (the constant tugging) at the point of contact and improve the dog's ability to focus on the things that are most important during a walk: any clear communication that you offer up, and having fun. 

A final word 

Many families note that they prefer that their dog be afforded more distance to roam when out on adventure, and that a retractable gives them that flexibility. My solution—one that I employ professionally—is to use a 20 foot long training lead. Typically made from lightweight cotton web, they are inexpensive, easy to find and can be let out to extend to the full 20 foot distance when safe to do so. Having one would be a great investment. 

Lorrie Shaw is a Certified Professional Pet Sitter, Certified Pet Loss and Grief Companion, and owner of Professional Pet Sitting, where she specializes in ancillary pet palliative and pet hospice care. She's also a member of Doggone Safe (where she completed the Speak Dog Certificate Program), as well as the International Association of Animal Hospice and Palliative Care, Pet Sitters International, Pet Professional Guild, International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants (supporting member) and Ann Arbor Area Pet Sitters. Lorrie can be found at lorrieshaw.com. She tweets at @psa2.

Thank you for not walking your dog

Upon meeting with a family of a happy Labrador mix a few weeks ago, the busy mom of two toddlers sheepishly mused, "I don't walk her as much as I should. I don't seem to have as much time these days, with the kids and all..." 

"No need to apologize," I responded. "You have this ginormous fenced backyard, she's occupied with playing fetch and squirrel-chasing. Let's not neglect the fact that she can run around free."

The truth is, walking said pooch is not all that fun. And by her human's admission, she's right—some of it has to do with poor skills on the part of the dog. But in my experience with her, outings are often fraught with challenges because of stuff going on in their neighborhood. The former could be remedied, but I know all too well how much work it is to try and smooth out. And for a busy young family, the bandwidth isn't there. And even if they could manage the training, there's the external stimuli and other dogs that have inadequate tools to cope and the humans with them that lack even more knowledge to create an ideal environment. Yes, it can be really hard to train our canine friends and then proof them in every challenging environment they'll face and expect the results we desire. 

I don't have a problem saying that I find dog walks a bit overrated. Sacrilege, right? Not so fast. 

Sure, dog walks can be fun, great exercise and terrific enrichment for our canine friends. But they are devoid of all of that for some dogs. So, what's the point? I ask. Walks are not the only form of exercise, fun or enrichment and I'm not sure who decided that walks were a must-do. There are plenty of other options to get dogs outside and burn off some energy, get some much-needed exercise or sniff around and use stimulate their brains. 

I've several canine charges that find walks challenging, and I accommodate that. Maybe that means only going for walks when their neighborhoods aren't so busy. It means avoiding one street because there's that one house where the well-meaning owners decided to go with an electric fence and their dog often makes their way to the street anyway and we'll have unwelcome interaction. Sometimes I go to Plan B, and stick with what's enriching, fun and what the dog can handle. Because when a dog needs to get outside and enjoy themselves, it should be a fun, favorable endeavor, not a daily struggle for both ends of the leash.

If you've a fenced yard, why not have a vigorous game of fetch? A ball, a Frisbee, a favored stuffed toy, heck! a stick will do just fine. Give your dog pal a play bow and give chase—they love that. Hide-and-seek is great fun, of course, as is a game of Find It. modeled after an Easter egg hunt, I hide a couple of a dogs favorite toys in the yard (alternatively I'll use a few favorite dog treats) and then open the door to let them hunt all the while encouraging them, 'find it!'. These games are great because they incorporate not only activity, but something far more important: engagement with their trusted humans. Dogs love—and need—this kind of interaction with us. It builds and maintains the human-animal bond and shared experience. It's also good for us humans. I can attest that I'll use any excuse to be silly and laugh. 

Don't have a fenced yard? Consider asking a friend or neighbor if you can borrow theirs while they're not around. Visiting a dog park during low-volume periods can be a boon; check out times of day when there's no one around and take advantage of that. One of the things that I love to do for dogs with no fence is to clip a long lead to their harness and head to a park or natural area when there is a low-volume of foot traffic around. Giving a dog the chance to sniff, to have autonomy, to make decisions about how long they'll be exploring and lingering over an area is tops. Here's a video demonstrating how useful a long lead can be. 

There's no need to allow others to shame you into forcing your dog into situations that they struggle in, even if it seems as benign as taking a walk. I can assure you that a leashed walk with a dog can be one of the most stressful situations for both dog and human. Of course, it's fine to work on leash manners on a regular basis when your dog is receptive to it, but if they really have trouble, as a professional, let me assure you I'll never throw shade on you when you decide to forgo it and stick with activities that your pet feels safe engaging in. 

Lorrie Shaw is owner of Professional Pet Sitting, where she specializes in ancillary pet palliative and pet hospice care and is also a Certified Pet Loss and Grief Companion. She's a member of Doggone Safe (where she completed the Speak Dog Certificate Program), as well as the International Association of Animal Hospice and Palliative Care, Pet Sitter International and Pet Professional Guild. She tweets at @psa2.

Decorum is key to avoid unwanted interactions with people while walking your dog

Wherever I am walking with one of my canine charges, there are usually a few smiles. It's hard for most people to walk past a dog without grinning and making a favorable comment, right? It goes without saying that for some, it's hard to suppress the urge to want to pet the dog I'm chaperoning or to stop and make small talk — and who can blame them? Dogs are fun! 

I'll admit that I don't allow people — especially those who are unfamiliar and ditto for children — to approach or pet my charges, and that's for several reasons. Some of the dogs are not comfortable with that. Others may be recovering from surgery or are old (and may be experiencing things like cognitive dysfunction). A handful are well, a handful when interacting with others. But let's not forget that some folks, regardless of age, aren't very good at knowing how to get up close and personal to a dog with care and finesse. 

And any of that could be a recipe for trouble, (and that's not even including approaches from other dogs.)

Aside from that, it can be a challenge to keep some dogs on task, especially when the goal is to get them out for a walk to get their business done. 

I often need to speak up and advocate for my charges — and at times, myself for that matter as yes, sometimes I'm just not in the mood to stop and talk  — and forgo any interaction with a well-meaning human. I'm all too aware that doing so, I might seem unfriendly or it might be off-putting to the other person, and that's not something I want. It's just not my way. Depending on the situation, I might be honest and say something like, 'Oh, Bo isn't comfortable interacting with people, so if you don't mind...' or 'Sadie's eyesight isn't that sharp anymore so that makes her wary of being approached, so if you'll excuse us...', and admittedly my preference is to be honest because it does promote a level of awareness. 

I do find that one no-fail response is easy to give, is as simple as dipping into my well of neutrality and keeps my charge and I on track:

'You'll have to pardon us... we're in the middle of a training exercise. Thanks for understanding!' 

I don't think there is a person alive that would assert themselves any further upon hearing that.

The next time you're out with your dog and want to avoid an interaction, you might consider cheerfully exclaiming the same thing. It's kept many a busy day moving along smoothly for me and for many of my charges, happy and in their comfort zone.

Lorrie Shaw is a freelance writer and owner of Professional Pet Sitting. Contact her at 734-904-7279 or follow her adventures on Twitter.

Researchers demystify the secret on how a dog's paws tolerate cold and snow

It's been a mild winter across much of the Midwest in comparison to those in recent past. That despite the snowy weather we've experienced here in Michigan so late in the season. So clement in fact that it has resulted in far fewer days where I've needed to be extra-creative with indoor play for my charges because of the bitterly-cold temperatures. 

It's no doubt that the winter weather can wreak havoc on our outdoor fun, and that of our canine friends. Their paws are a special consideration because they have direct contact with the ground.

I'm seeing the use of dog booties more often. And, since I work professionally with animals, I'm asked about my opinion on them. It seems that though a lot of dog owner's gut instinct is telling them that using booties doesn't seem necessary, they feel like they might not be doing the right thing by forgoing them. They admit part of it is due to peer pressure, which is unfortunate. 

I have to say that for the most part, I find dog booties unnecessary. But before you scoff at my stance, allow me to explain. 

In my experience, the biggest problem with the booties is that they don't fit well. Unless you have nice clunky ankles like a Great Dane, no matter how the booties fasten they don't stay on. And if they don't stay on, the protection that they're intended to offer isn't there, right? 

Speaking of which, the theory on what booties are designed to do is two-fold: they are supposed to protect a dog's paws from salt and ice melter as well as the elements (namely the cold). 

The former is a valid concern, no doubt. I find that in some areas – especially in neighborhoods and on city sidewalks – there's an abundance of product scattered about that can be irritating to a dog's paws. Whether it's the texture or the chemical itself that causes discomfort, dog booties (Pawz brand is tops in my book) can be a boon in keeping pets marching on. Musher's Secret is a nice choice, too. 

In my years chaperoning pets on outdoor adventures and gauging their behavior during and after, there's no indication – barring the below-zero temps that we occasionally see here in Michigan – that their paws experience discomfort from the cold. Why that's the case is supported by findings by researchers out of Japan. 

To begin with, dogs' pads contain lots of fatty tissue. This area doesn't freeze as easily as other tissues, and the blood vessels in dogs' feet are arranged in a way that's unique: they let them serve as living heat exchangers — arteries in the paws are very close to networks of tiny veins, and these allow the transfer of heat from venous to arterial blood.

The research was conducted by Dr. Hiroysho Ninomiya and other scientists at Tokyo's Yamazaki Gakuen University. An electron microscope and four subjects were used to help do the study, which was published in the journal Veterinary Dermatology.

A "counter-current" heat exchange occurs like this: a paw is cooled by contact with frozen ground, and warmth from the arteries in the paw gets transferred to the tiny veins, called "venules." This helps keep the paw at a manageable temperature. It also warms the blood before it flows back to the body, which helps keep the dog's body temperature from falling too low.

This isn't an ability that nature has given only to canines. Penguins and foxes, have it, too. 

The information in the study suggests that dogs may have evolved in cold environments, but this doesn't mean that they should be left out in the elements.

Some pets can be more sensitive than others when it comes to the cold and their paws. If yours is one of them, it's always wise to use your best judgement to help them stay comfortable. 

Lorrie Shaw is a freelance writer and owner of Professional Pet Sitting. Shoot her an email, contact her at 734-904-7279 or follow her adventures on Twitter.

Positive reinforcement is an asset when approaching others about their dog's behavior -- or their own

No one likes to hear negative things about their dog's behavior, not to mention their own when it comes to engaging with their pet.

When our pets behave in a way that is less-than-ideal in a social setting (namely with other dogs), it usually doesn't slip through our radar to some degree, though we hope that it has in the eyes of others. Some social offenses are negligible, even funny. Others are, well, quite telling with regard to how our ongoing training is going.

But let's face it: some of us share life with dogs that just never get the hang of navigating some social situations, so it's understood that we need to pick our battles, right?

Picking our battles is something we can easily do when in the midst of other folks and their dogs, too.

I find that just as with everything else, there's no shortage of opinions when it comes to how a canine should behave or how their said human ought to handle a situation, and often it doesn't seem to matter how much knowledge the person really has is that is doling out advice, solicited or not.

With that said, it seems especially important for all of us to know when it's mindful or necessary to speak up when we are truly in the know, and how to do it. It's all about context. I often find myself in a situations that can be especially rife with vicissitude; it's never easy to talk to a stranger about their pet's behavior — or theirs — in public setting when I feel the need arises.

Identifying the motivation

I find a good place to begin is to ask myself what my motivation for speaking up really is. In other words, do I want to influence the other person's behavior, or is there a more pressing need, like protecting the dog that I am chaperoning? In essence, do I need to work the person, the the dog — or both?

Clarifying that can help set the course to more well-received dialogue with the person, or in some instances, effective action on your part to diffuse a potentially dangerous situation.

Effective approaches to use with humans

In most cases, the opportunity is there to work the person, and I find it's always best to start on a positive note, and as always, have a big pocketful of valuable treats. (Click here for a little on when it's best to work the dog.)

Let's say I'm accompanying one of my charges in a veterinary clinic waiting room and there's another dog that is allowed to approach my dog in a way that they find unfavorable. I might says something like, "Boy, your dog is quite friendly and eager to engage — wow, such gorgeous eyes — how old is she?" After the owner's response I might add that the dog I'm with is feeling a bit nervous, and while it's nothing against their dog, "I'm just going to move to the other side of the room (or outside)..."

In doing so, I've made nice with that person, and possibly given them something to think about while avoiding a potential skirmish. The same thing could work at a dog park or on a walk. (Click here for more on veterinary office waiting room etiquette.)

The point is that positive reinforcement isn't just for dogs. Humans respond well to it, too — just as they do when they are lead by a positive example.

That brings me to a couple of other scenarios that I often experience, and they can be handled similarly.

It's not uncommon for others with dogs to want to stop and chat if I'm out walking a dog. I may pick up on the other dog's inability to handle themselves in a social situation when their human doesn't recognize the anxiety that they are exhibiting. I find that the canine that I'm chaperoning may be perfectly fine, but the other dog is be clearly signaling that they are much too distressed by the close approach. To diffuse their discomfort, I will ask if I can offer some treats to the other dog as we are chatting, while keeping a safe distance, and toss them a couple as well as the dog I'm with during the exchange, which I always keep brief. Before excusing myself, I find a way to interject how well their dog seemed to compose themselves once they were given the option to have a little physical space and a healthy distraction since "...I noticed that Rex appeared very stressed with our initial introduction. Keep up the good work!"

Stepping in without stepping on any toes

Seeing a human handle a dog roughly is always a difficult sight, isn't it? One might see anything from an owner yelling in a dog's face when they don't feel like they are getting the behavior that they are looking for, or perhaps getting physical with them by way of jerking on the leash or worse. It's perfectly reasonable to have the desire to say something or to diffuse a situation like this — and in some cases, even have concern for the owner's safety as this may a repeated pattern with them and the dog might get pushed too far.

I've been faced with this, and as sad as it is, it's simply not my job to police the way that other people interact with their dogs — but I can keep the door of possibility open to influence them in a positive way, and I need not even mention what I saw.

The important thing to keep in mind is, just as in the aforementioned scenarios, people, just like their canine friends, respond better to positive reinforcement and interaction, and being empowered.

I'll walk up, a warm smile on my face and ask about their dog.

"Oh, I used to be a caregiver for a dog just like yours, but they've moved away... I miss her — is he a boxer? What a beautiful dog, please tell me about him..."

That disarms the human, sets them at ease and in turn, the dog often follows suit.

Then I ask if I can offer the dog a treat. If so, I might ask the pooch for a sit and when they do (this almost always happens), they get yummy treats and, fingers crossed, the human sees an example of how their dog can demonstrate desired behaviors, given the opportunity. The whole thing may go over the owners head, but the point is that I have the attention of them both at that crucial moment and got a favorable and hopefully, a resonant conversation rolling.

I usually have a pocket(s) full of treats, so I would also add at the end of our conversation, "It was nice to meet you, have a great time with Rocky today... oh, I have plenty of treats, would you like some for your walk home??"

If I simply march over and voice my displeasure about how abusive that sort of thing is, the person will block me out or worse. Be assured that next time they see me, they'll remember the negative exchange and avoid me. In using the suggested approach, I avoid overstepping a boundary or putting them on the defensive.

Granted, it can be a challenge to encounter cringeworthy situations with other dogs and their humans, but with a clear, meaningful objective, a little positive reinforcement and a cool head one can empower a misguided or frustrated human that is attached to the other end of a leash when it is needed.



Lorrie Shaw is a freelance writer -- most recently as regular contributor on MLive -- and owner of Professional Pet Sitting. Shoot her an email, contact her at 734-904-7279 or follow her adventures on Twitter.

Dog walking equipment can fail, but one inexpensive item can be a safeguard to keep your pet tethered to you

The act of walking a dog is as unpredictable as most anything that I can think of.

I have charges in my care that are effortless on leash no matter what we encounter on an adventure, while others can be reactive if they even see another dog. That said, there are plenty of dogs that fall somewhere in between when it comes to being able to handle themselves when out and about.

Then of course, there are other dogs that are allowed to make an unwelcome approach.

Try as I might, I realize that there are things that are out of my control. Nonetheless, I have the responsibility to ensure that not only my clients, but everyone else, stay safe.

I employ a considerable amount of mindfulness when it has comes to choosing the gear that I use when walking a dog, no matter the breed or age. What I find works best for me and my canine pals is their flat or martingale collar that includes their identification tag, an Easy Walker harness, a long lead (more on that is available by clicking here) or a 6 foot leash, depending — and a carabiner.

I find that the latter piece of gear provides me a little extra peace of mind when it comes to my staying physically connected to my charge when I use it to connect a dog's collar to the harness.

I always use and recommend those two pieces when walking a dog, and despite the fact that they are both great at staying secure, the reality is that dogs can wriggle out of their harnesses, and collars can slip off in the blink of an eye and then you've got a pooch on the loose. If your dog is like a couple of those that I care for, they'll capitalize on any opportunity to not be tethered while outdoors and away they go!

The solution: I simply clip one of my carabiners to the ring on my charge's flat or martingale collar to the ring on the harness, and then of course I connect the leash to the ring on the harness as usual.

Regardless of the equipment that you prefer to use, this is a simple trick that you can employ with your own pet for an added measure of safety — simply clip the two (whether it be a martingale, flat or head collar/halter or harness, specifically) using the rings on each with a carabiner.

Should any one of tools have a failure, the carabiner acts as a backup. Typically available at sporting goods or outdoor specialty stores, (better pet stores usually carry a leash made by RuffWear that has one built-in), a carabiner is an inexpensive and easy way to ensure that your pet stays tethered to you.

For more of my tips on making the most of your time out with your furry pal, click here.


Lorrie Shaw is a freelance writer and owner of Professional Pet Sitting. Shoot her an email, contact her at 734-904-7279 or follow her adventures on Twitter.

Curbing an unwanted approach from an off-leash dog can be done in a couple of easy steps

I find the following scenario irksome, if not dangerous: I'm with a canine client for a leashed walk, either in the woods or in a neighborhood and suddenly, an unfamiliar dog (or three) appear and are charging toward us.

This is a scenario that I need to be hyper-aware of, as several clients on my roster are in the process of learning to be better socialized (and admittedly yes, some of them will never change). Others have had a recent surgery, or have painful injuries or arthritis. Some are seniors and do not see or hear well, and that can complicate sociability.

It's not unusual for me to hear a distant human voice exclaim as they try to catch up to their four-legged pal, "Don't worry! My dog is friendly!" (We dog professionals refer to this as MDIF, by the way.) Then I respond, "But this dog has difficulty, so it's appreciated that you please give them a little space."

Being prepared to get out of situations like this is crucial no matter who you are, but as a professional, I can offer a fast and simple way that I buy myself a little time to get a handle on the situation and get some much-needed distance between the dogs involved.

First, always have a pocketful of tasty dog treats handy when out on your adventures.

If you find yourself in a sticky situation like this, employ what I call a 'fast sit and stay': ask your dog to sit and stay behind you while you step forward a bit and toss a handful of treats into the face of the dog that is coming toward you.

Tossing the treats usually distracts the dog enough so that they spend several minutes sniffing them out on the ground while you and your pet make a quick, quiet exit.

If you're not able to get your own dog "on a stay," as we professionals call it, the surprise of tasty treats tossed in the other dog's face will usually keep them occupied for at least for a couple of minutes.

This is a useful idea for anyone who runs or walks, whether you have a dog or not.

(I should note that this isn't likely to work in a situation where there is a highly stimulated, aggressive dog that is solely focused on attacking either you or your pet. That unfortunately is a much different scenario.)

For more tips on getting the most out of your walking adventures with your dog, click here.


Lorrie Shaw is a freelance writer and owner of Professional Pet Sitting. Shoot her an email, contact her at 734-904-7279 or follow her adventures on Twitter.